Lighting a fire seems simple… until it’s not. Anyone who’s battled smoky starts, slow burns, or fires that die halfway through knows the difference between lighting a fire and building one properly. A good fire isn’t luck - it’s about airflow, fuel quality, and sequence. Here’s how to do it right.
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1. Start with the Right Wood
Good wood is half the job. Wet or green wood won’t burn well; it hisses, smokes, and wastes energy. Always use seasoned hardwood - that means it’s been air-dried for at least 12 months and has a moisture content below 20%.
Best woods for Australian heaters:
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Ironbark, Red Gum, Box, or Stringybark (slow-burning, high heat)
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Ash or Oak if you can get them (steady, even burn)
Avoid softwoods like pine for anything but kindling - they burn fast and dirty.
2. Build for Airflow
Air is your fire’s oxygen. Starve it, and your fire will smother. The goal is to create a structure that encourages air to flow from below and through the wood stack.
The best structure:
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Base layer: Two small to medium logs placed parallel, with a small gap between them for air to move.
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Kindling layer: Stack thin, dry sticks or split-off cuts crosswise on top of the logs.
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Firelighter or newspaper: Place it under the kindling in the center. Use a single, clean firelighter if you prefer convenience.
3. Try the “Top-Down” Lighting Method
Old-school “bottom-up” fires (paper → kindling → logs on top) work, but “top-down” fires burn cleaner and last longer. Here’s how:
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Place your largest logs at the bottom.
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Add smaller logs across them.
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Lay kindling and a firelighter on top of the stack.
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Light the top - not the bottom.
As the top burns down, it preheats and ignites the logs below, producing less smoke and more heat right from the start.
4. Set Your Air Controls Correctly
Your freestanding wood heater likely has at least one air intake control. For ignition, it needs maximum airflow.
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Open all air vents fully before lighting.
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Leave the door slightly ajar (1–2 cm) until the kindling is roaring - this acts like a turbocharger.
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Once the larger logs catch, close the door fully but leave air controls open for another 10–15 minutes.
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When the fire has a bright flame and steady base, slowly reduce airflow to achieve an efficient, controlled burn.
If you close it too early, the fire will suffocate; too late, and you’ll waste heat up the flue.
5. Let It Establish Before Reloading
The first 15–20 minutes are critical. Resist the urge to fiddle with it. Once the fire has burned down to a healthy bed of glowing coals, add a couple of new logs. Always reload before the previous load turns to ash - coals ignite fresh logs faster and more efficiently.
Tip: Place new logs behind the coals, not directly on top, to allow continued airflow and complete combustion.
6. Keep It Clean, Keep It Safe
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Empty ash when it builds up past a few centimeters — but always leave a thin layer; it insulates and helps relight the next fire.
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Check your flue every few months. Excess soot or creosote buildup means your fire’s burning too cool or your wood is too damp.
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Don’t overload the firebox. It might seem efficient, but packed wood restricts airflow and leads to smoky burns.
7. Bonus: The Perfect Fire Routine
For most modern wood heaters, this daily pattern works best:
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Morning: Rake coals forward, add small kindling and a log or two.
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Afternoon: Re-stoke while coals are still active.
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Night: Add large, dense logs before bed for an overnight burn.
The Takeaway
A well-built fire burns hotter, cleaner, and longer — and keeps your heater working efficiently for years. The secret is patience, dry wood, and airflow. Light it from the top, feed it with care, and let the design of your freestanding wood heater do the rest.
Once you’ve mastered that first crackling roar, you’ll never go back to smoky kindling chaos again.
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